2012: Last day in BA

We have spent this week at our Spanish classes in the mornings, and wandering the town in the afternoons. Yesterday was no different, except that we met up with our wonderful guide from Cicerones, Marcella.

We wandered from Av. Florida, a little like Melbourne's Burke Street, too Plaza De Mayo. Each Thursday afternoon the Madres de Plaza De Mayo march around the square, as they have done since their children first disappeared during the dictatorship that ended 20 years ago. During the dictatorship any gathering of more than 3 people in public was banned, so the mothers would walk around and around the plaza in groups of 3, wearing old cloth nappies on their heads, demanding that their children are returned or justice be served. These women have still not found what has happened to their children, but they are discovering grandchildren who were adopted out to various government officials and the like when their parents were, presumably, executed. These children have come to the organisation who has then genetically tested them to prove who their real family is. It is an amazing story.

At the same time the entire square was being overtaken by fanaticos, fans of the San Lorenzo Soccer Club who are demanding that their stadium be returned to them, after it was taken by the government during the years of the dictatorship. This rally went on well into the night, though had a very festive vibe with a stage with music and dancing, food stalls, street vendorrs and oh so many team flags!!! We walked back by there later in the evening, when the streets were all blocked to traffic and so many people were joining in the fun. You would not want to yell out 'Go Boca Juniors', you would probably be jumped and murdered!!!

We then headed down to Puerto Mardero, BA's version of South Bank, with a very similar atmosphere though not quite as big and noisy. There is a beautiful old sailing boat in the water, that is still used as a Navy Training Vessel, yet it is set up as a museum and open to the public. It is a beautiful area with outdoor bars where we sat and had a drink and watched the moon rise and wonderful tango dancing, we walked over the Women's Bridge, down the opposite side of the river where there are many roller bladers, perhaps it is the only place in the city where the foot paths aren't cracked! A lovely area.

From here we headed back to Plaza de Mayo to see la Casa Rosada in all of its beautiful lit up glory, surrounded by riot police and a temporary fence that is permanently in place across the plaza for when there are rallies, protests and celebrations in the plaza, as was the case last night with the soccer fans!

Today is our last day in Buenos Aires, and while we have enjoyed our time here we are, in all honesty, so so glad to be leaving. The smog and pollution are killing us slowly, I don't know how people can live here, but in the same time it is beautiful. The architecture, the many plazas and beautiful statues, and most of all the passion of the portenos, who take to the streets to celebrate, commiserate and advocate at any given opportunity.

We aren't too sure when we will have internet access again, I'm sure it won't be too long, but Hasta Luego until then!