Our life is spent looking to the future. What adventures will we find there?





Sunday 25 November 2012

Lake Titicaca: Copacabana, Bolivia & Puno, Peru.


Lake Titicaca, Copacabana, Bolivia.

We first arrived at Lake Titicaca on the Bolivian shore, in Copacabana, on the 22nd of October. It didn't seem like a big town because arrived at night time. We checked into a hostel and went out for a quick eat before going back to our hotel to sleep. The next morning, the 23rd, we went out onto the Lake in a hired rowboat for a few hours. After lunch we went back and hired a guide and a boat to take us to another small town 30 mins by boat away. The trip there was beautiful, we were the only ones out on the lake!!!!!!!!!

When we got to our destination the guide took us for a walk around some farms and the hillside. We could see a tiny little community of about 80 houses, all made up of farmhouses. It was very scenic. We then went back to the 'floating island'. It wasn't really the floating islands we were expecting to see, just some 44 gallon drums lashed into some wood planks and covered with reeds, not very traditional!!!!! We had a meal of Trucha frita, fried trout, and it was very good, and fresh!!!! We had caught it ten minutes before we ate it!!!!!!!!
The wonderful and scenic farms and farmhouses. The farmers here grow quinoa, maiz and chocro - corn, and papas - potato's. There were also trout farms in the water.
This was the beautiful Trucha frita, fried trout, with papas fritas - chips, rice and salad. The fish tasted so fresh.
On the way back from the fake floating islands where we ate the trout. The views across the lake were fantastic, the water was so clear and the air was so fresh.
This was our 'capitan' and guide Hermando. He was a funny old fella. We asked him how long he'd lived by the lake, and he told us he had all his life. He had started work as a fisherman and sailor with hid dad when he was 7 years old.
 He then told us he was nearly 70 !!!!!!!!
A beautiful colourful sunset over the lake.
Unfortunately that night I came down with gastro. Again. I was to find out a few days later that I had another gastro-intestinal infection in Puno, on the Peruvian side of the lake.

On the 25th, after taking a day off doing nothing but watching crap tv and reading on the 24th, we set out for Isla del Sol, or Isle of the Sun. It was here that the Incas believed that Inti, the sun, first shone its rays and delivered his first son, the Inca Ayar Manco, who later became Manco Capac. His sister and wife, Mama Occlo, went with him to help him teach the people of earth how to farm, their religion and practices, and kindness and generosity to their neighbours, and the language of Quechua, still spoken today by many millions of Peruvians and Bolivians. There is another language commonly used, Aymara, but this is used remotely in some parts of the Bolivian and Peruvian Andes, near the borders, and the regions on the Bolivian shores of Lake Titicaca. Today, only the older generations of people can speak Aymara. People in Copacabana and Isla del Sol speak Aymara, while people in Puno speak Quechua. Very close by is Isla del Luna, isle of the moon. Here, as on Isla del Sol, there are temples and monuments dedicated to these two people.

We stayed in a lovely little house run by a small family. They had their house situated on the shore of the lake, and we could look at the lake all day long. Sadly, Brenna came down with the awful gastro too this day, so she spent that day just resting and lying down. 

The next day, the 26th, we went out walking and saw some of the ruins that still stand today. There was a temple that had many many door frames and walls still standing. There was a sacred alter to make offerings to the god Pachamama - Mother Nature, goddess of the earth. People come here to give offerings of cigarettes, beer, money, food, but especially coca leaves. We left Isla del Sol that afternoon, and headed by bus to Puno, Peru.

We got there that night around 10 and checked in to a cheap hostel and went to bed. The next day, the 27th, Brenna and I went to a health clinic and got our diagnosis. Brenna had what I had but only to a milder extent. The doctor loaded us up with antibiotics and antiparasitical tablets and sent us on our way. That night we went to the circus, called Circo Monte Carlo. It is rare to see a circus where the clowning is the main act, it was fantastic.

The next day, the 28th, we went on a cruise to the real Floating Islands. They were interesting, as there are a total 2000 people living on many many different islands. The families that live there live 100% off the spending's of tourists money. This is a very bad situation for them. Although it allows them to have more money then other Peruvians, they have lost quite a lot of their traditional ways. The only traditional thing I think I saw was the actual floating islands themselves and a couple of wicker and reed boats. All of the stuff they sell is mass produced, but with images of the islands and island related themes.

This was the real floating islands. All of the islands are sadly pretty much identical. The man waiting for us is the owner of the island. His family of 25 live there with him in tiny little huts.
One of the traditional types of boats that were used in older times. They are made of reeds, grass and ropes. A sail can be fixed but most are paddled along by oars.
After the floating islands we went to another island called Isla Taquite. Everybody on this island speaks Quechua as their first language, and Spanish second. Here again the economy relies on tourism as it's main income. While we were waiting in the Plaza de Armas, the town square, the mayor of the island and the community presidents orated a speech to the people of the island. All of it was in Quechea, with just a few Spanish words in between. Later, we asked our guide what was being said and he replied, 'The mayor is proposing that for the 345th anniversary of the founding of the town of Puno, the men and women of the island will make foods and gifts and make special dances and dance in Puno as a gift for the celebrations'.

Even though I wasn't able to understand what was being said at the time, it was amazing to see this whole island come out to the main square and listen to their leader speak to them, in Quechua, the way it would of been done 345 years ago, and still is done today. It certainly was a privilege!!!!

One of the entrances to another of the islands communities. There are 6 throughout the island in total.
A view of the islands many farms of quinoa, corn and potatoes. There were also many new spring lambs being walked by 6 and 7 year old kids from farm to farm.Quite a responsibility. Can you imagine an Australian kid doing the same??? I can't think of any!!!!!    
A photo of me and the lake in the background. On the other side of the cold clear blue water lies Bolivia, about 200km's or so away.
This signpost was in the Plaza de Armas. It's in kilometers. Once again we were reminded we were a long long long way from home!!!!!
We went for a lunch at a restaurant and had another plate of trucha frita, and afterwards we made our long journey back to the mainland, Puno.
The next day we set off to go back to our home and friends Kelly and Ruben, in Cuzco!!!!!!!

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